Friday, November 14, 2008

Day 7 - Mostly Spent Driving, but also sailing

Woke up a bit early on the boat since someone was sick and needed to be evacuated by helicopter, then finished our cruise of Fiorland with the best scenery of the trip…then we had to sail back to Deep Cove, catch a bus to another boat, then drive seven hours.

Having seen the work that the glaciers did carving up the landscape in Fiordland, we headed up north to Franz Josef to see a real life actual glacier…again, a seven hour drive, so that’s about it for today.

Some pics from the morning cruise:
(if you look really close you can see a whale tail)

I have no idea where we took this picture, presumably on the drive to Franz Josef Glacier:

Day 6 - Doubtful Sound

No such luck again this morning getting on a flight to Milford Sound, so we decided to switch things up a bit – instead of heading to Franz Josef Glacier, we opted for an overnite cruise on Doubtful Sound. This required a 2 hour drive, an hour long boat ride across a lake, an hour long bus ride across a mountain pass, and then an overnite cruise on a second boat. Great experience. We saw some Fiordland Crested Penguins, the rarest penguins in the world, and sailed briefly out into the open ocean. Also met some old guy from Australia who said that “whales float by my house all the time.”

(luxury accommodations aboard the Fiordland Navigator).

(Kristin, foreground. Fiordland Navigator, background)


(Doubtful Sound is not a sound, but a fiord...carved by glaciers and backfilled by the ocean...Captain Cook got this as wrong as Hawaiian politics).

(into the Tasman Sea)

(and back...)


(the Fiorland Crested Penguin is not only rare, it's also very small)(we clearly need a new camera...those are seals on that rock...)

Day 5 - Queenstown

Our early morning flight to Milford Sound, and all subsequent later flights, were canceled, so we had to wing it a bit. After what was easily the biggest breakfast we’ve ever seen, we sat in the hot tub for a bit to aid digestion before taking Kristin out for some bungy jumping. (No bungy jumping for Tony).

We had an ice cream lunch in the former coal mining town, Arrowtown, before heading to the Shotover River for a jet boat ride through the river’s canyons. Jet boats are like great big jet skis, capable of doing 360 degree turns and hugging the canyon walls.

Later in the day, we headed into Queenstown for a few beers before taking a gondola ride, racing some street luges, and then having an early dinner.


(That's Kristin dangling there...)

(it's sort of the Budweiser of the South Island actually...)

(Kristin can't believe she almost at the whole thing...)

Day 4 - Queenstown

Day 4 – After a short flight to Queenstown we settled into our inn and then set out to make the best of our first half day in town. First, we went to a place called Deer Park Heights, an odd combination of panoramic views of the area, barnyard animals, and Lord of Rings shoot sites.

After that, we stopped to watch some bungy jumping, before having a late lunch at a winery/cheesery, then we took a quick, and exhausting hike, up Mount Crichton.

(Not Harvey, as it turned out, just some guy from Boston who seemed pissed McCain lost)

(in Middle Earth, we figured out our camera had a timer!)

(prior to human settlement, there were only two mammals native to Australia, and they were very small bats, not bison)

The innkeepers, Bill and Kari, knew it was our honeymoon, so they had a bottle of champagne waiting for us...
And a decorated bed...

This was our dinner...

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Day Three - Whales


Drove two hours from Blenheim to Kaikoura for some whale watching. The deep canyon trench a short distance off the coast of Kaikoura makes it one of the few places on earth you’re nearly guaranteed to see sperm whales this close to shore pretty much every single day of the year.

Along the way there were seals just laying on the rocks next to the road.

If you look closely you can see the head of a whale in the clouds over Kaikoura - a good omen
The people on the boat who weren't busy puking saw two sperms whale; one whale twice, and then another.
(neither of the whales were white in color...)
(Thar she blows...)

This place left a flyer on our car when we were out at sea...

In New Zealand, this is called a crayfish (hint: it's really a lobster)



(dolphins are little whales...)

Day Two – Queen Charlotte Sound

We got up for an early breakfast so that we could make an 8 a.m. boat in Picton, which was supposed to take us to the head of the Queen Charlotte track for a five hour hike before returning for us. We missed the boat by about five minutes, so had to wait two hours for the next boat. I decided to kill some of the time by driving a bit along a “scenic route” to Havelock; i.e. a winding, cliff-hugging narrow road not wide enough for two cars to pass at regular speed. It was a nice enough drive, but the twisting and turning made me so car sick that I sort of threw up in my mouth a couple times. We drove back to town and caught the later boat (ironically, no sea sickness).

On the way to our destination, Resolution Cove, we made several stops and saw a few interesting things along the way, including where Cook first landed.

Our trip to Picton was capped off when I got to see the “9th Oldest Ship in the World.”

(a nice German guy took this bad picture of us on the cruise around the sound)
(view from the Queen Charlotte Track)
(and another)
(whaling related mural in Picton)


(The 9th oldest ship in the world)

Days 0-1: Travel and Arrival

The trans-Pacific trip was a bit bumpy, but relatively pain-free; however, we were disappointed to find out a bit late in the game that our older model Qantas 747 did not actually have the “lie-flat” “beds” we’d been promised. Apparently, if we write them a letter, we’ll be somehow compensated.

Upon arrival in Auckland, the first New Zealander I talked to was a rather surly immigration official who berated me for the (alleged) shabby physical state of my passport. The second person, a much friendlier customs agent, immediately asked us if we were happy about our new president. He corrected himself, “President elect.” (NZ is having it’s own national election Saturday).

As the customs agents x-rayed our bags, they found a couple apples we’d packed for snacks but subsequently forgotten. We were then lead to something labeled the “Infringement Desk!” and fined $200 for not declaring them and disposing of them. I’m sure our money will go to a good cause.

After a somewhat brutal five hour layover in Auckland, we finally boarded our plane to the south island. It was easily the smallest plane I’ve even ridden, and apparently there’s no such thing as airport security here; we just walked out to the runway and got on the plane – our bags were never searched or x-rayed. The flight really wasn’t that bad. The best part was that there was no door to the cockpit, so you could look out the front of the plane. Very fun, especially while landing.

After landing in Blenheim, we drove to our B&B, the Straw Lodge, which is located on a vineyard. The owners told us they were bracing for a possible frost which could potentially wipe out their entire crop for the year. They warned us that they’d likely have to run on their frost prevention windmills which would probably keep us awake all nite if they did.

After settling in, we met the other two couples at the inn. The first couple was from Chapel Hill, NC. The woman was the librarian of the journalism school when I was there. I’m nearly certain I remember her. Her husband is a history professor. The second couple is here celebrating the husband's five year anniversary surviving pancreatic cancer.

Then we had dinner. Then we went to bed. Apparently the frost never came, but they did run the machinery, which did not awaken us.

(Kristin with backpack, frontpack, and smoothie at Auckland Airport)
(The view from our room at the inn, plus the dog.)